I was given a task to do a cat demonstration at the launching of the new SPCA (Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) branch at Kota Bharu tomorrow. The admin wants me to show to the public on how to handle cats, especially the aggressive ones.
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Picking up a cat
As a general rule, it is advisable to reach down and pick up a cat from above. A face-to-face confrontation might provoke a cat into becoming uncooperative or aggressive.
Cooperative Cat: Place one hand around the abdomen beneath the chest and take hold of the front legs so they cross over each other, keeping your index finger between them for a secure grip. Pick up the cat and snuggle it close to your body. Cradle the chin with your other hand.
Apprehensive Cat: Reach down and lift the cat by the scruff of its neck. Most cats go limp--as they did when their mothers carried them as kittens. Support the back feet with your other hand.
Frightened Cat: Cover the animal with a towel. After a minute or two, as the cat becomes calmer, slide the rest of the towel underneath and lift up the cat as a bundle.
Aggressive Cat: Slip a leash or a loop of rope over the cat's head and one front leg. Then lift the animal by the leash and set it down on a table or into a cat carrier or box. This method should be used only as a last resort because it is certain to agitate the cat further.
Restraining cat for treatment
Cooperative Cat: Lift the cat onto a smooth surface such as a tabletop. The cat will be less secure--but still not frightened. Speak in a calm soothing voice until the cat relaxes. Place one hand around the front of the chest to keep the cat from moving forward. Use your other hand to administer treatment.
Uncooperative Cat: Depending on the degree of agitation, several methods are available. If cooperative enough to permit handling, then grasp the cat by the scruff of the neck and press firmly against the top of the table so that the cat stretches out. These actions will prevent you from being scratched by the cat's rear claws.
Picking up the cat.
Reach down and grasp the cat by the scruff of the neck. Secure the back feet with your other hand. Note the position of the fingers, which securely immobilize the front legs.
A leash and loop restraint.
The cat is immobilized by drawing the leash taut. To keep the cat from being choked, the loop should include one leg.
A cat bag restraint is useful for treating the head.
A cat muzzle that covers the eyes and ears has a calming effect.
Another method of restraining for a short procedure.
An assistant is required.
Transporting an injured or uncooperative cat.
Lift the cat as described in the text and lower it into a sack or pillowcase.
When help is available, have your assistant stand behind the cat and place both hands around the cat's neck or front legs while pressing his or her arms against the cat's sides. Wrapping a towel or blanket around the cat has a calming effect and is useful for short procedures such as giving medication. An assistant is required to steady the cat and hold the wraps in place.
When procedures take longer and the cat cannot be managed by the above methods, lift the cat straight up from behind by the scruff of the neck with one hand and hold the rear paws together with the other. Press down firmly on the table so the cat is lying on its side with body extended. Now have an assistant bind the front legs together with adhesive tape, taking two or three turns below the elbows. Secure the rear legs by wrapping with tape above the hocks. Calm the cat by covering its head with a towel or cloth.
When properly restrained, cats usually settle down and accept the treatment. Once released, they soon forget the unpleasant experience.
Transporting an injured cat
NO MATTER HOW DOCILE BY BASIC NATURE, ANY CAT IN PAIN MAY SCRATCH OR BITE. Proper handling will prevent injuries. Furthermore, struggling can cause a weak or injured cat to tire quickly and can produce further shock and collapse.
Carrying a cat.
Hold the cat firmly against your body with its rear feet pressed out behind. Cover the eyes and ears with your other hand.
If able to handle, pick up the cat as described forCooperative Cat, then settle it over your hip so the rear claws project out behind where they can do no harm. Press the inside of your elbow and forearm against the cat's side, holding the cat firmly against your body. Cover the eyes and ears with your other hand.
If the cat is frightened or in pain, take precautions to avoid injury. Lift the cat at once from behind by the nape of the neck and lower it into a cat carrier or a cloth bag such as a pillowcase. The material must not be airtight, or the cat will smother. Once inside with no way to see out, the animal will feel secure and begin to relax.Transport the cat to the veterinary hospital.
If unable to handle, first throw a towel over the cat, then set a box on top. Raise the edge of the box and slide the top underneath. The cat is now enclosed and can be transported.
You can pamper your cat by stroking its coat or neck
Neck stroking
Body stroking
Kitten Handling
Kittens must be handled with great care as they are very fragile. Because their tiny bones are still delicate and easily damaged, never squeeze them. One should also never pick a kitten up by the scruff of the neck by anyone other than their mothers. The correct method to pick a kitten up who is old enough to leave its mother is to slide one hand underneath its middle and support it with the other hand on the neck or shoulders. You can then transfer the underneath hand so that the kitten is sitting on it. If the kitten struggles to get away, be sure to always lower it to within an easy jump to the floor so she doesn’t injure herself.
Another method is pick up the cat with both hands, first putting your hand under the chest just behind the front legs (using your forearm for additional support). Then support the back feet above and behind the paws with your free hand, cradling the rear of the body so that the cat is fully supported. The key is to success is making the cat feel both safe and comfortable, and keeping her limbs in check so you don't get scratched.
Reminder
Never pick up a cat with both hands by the midsection without supporting the hind legs. This will upset most cats and leave their back paws free to scratch you.
If it's necessary to handle a feral cat, an injured cat, or a cat who seems prone to biting or scratching, wear heavy duty gloves and a long sleeved shirt or jacket.
If you are unaccustomed to handling cats, you should not attempt to pick up feral or injured cats yourself if it's possible to find someone more experienced to help you.
In most cases, feral cats should be trapped rather than handled. Your vet or local shelter will usually have traps available to borrow or rent.
Do not raise voice or speaking near to scared cats, especially feral cats
Often, badly injured cats should not be moved unless it's to move them out of harm's way (the middle of a street, for example). Then contact a veterinarian to determine whether the cat should be moved, and how best to do so.
Some cats simply don't like to be handled. Over time, gentle petting and treats may help you gain their trust, but don't assume every cat can be picked up safely on the first attempt. Give it time, and chances are that eventually she'll come around.
Do not pick up a full grown cat without supporting its hind legs. You could pull its stomach muscle. Also, by handling it in that way, the organs are stressed. Always place one hand under the hind legs for support. If you don't trust cat, hold the cat with its face and feet pointing away from you, but still support it from underneath.
Sources; Cat handling tips by Wendy Mirroto, Cat handling and restraining DoctorDog.com, How to handle a kitten 4yourhealth.com
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